IoT - Maker and IOT Ideas

A Simple IoT Plant Watering Solution

This is a Simple IoT Plant Watering Solution, done as another collaboration with the local High School in my Area. In this project, they took a group of purely academic students ( Language majors ) and told them that they had to design an electronics project that would have use in the real world…

This presented a very tough situation to the students since they had never even imagined that they could do something like this… (Think along the lines of a Senior Design project, like what you would give EE Students during their final year – with all the documentation, pamphlets, and explanations – i.e. lots and lots of paperwork) , and then also add on the requirement that they had to present a practical project as well! And they have only 45 days to do that as well!

I came into this picture late on a Thursday or Friday afternoon, with a group of students milling around outside the Electronics lab. They were unknown to me and seemed quite flustered… I invited them in, and eventually, they started opening up about their problem…

As it turned out, they were completely clueless, and did not know where to start with anything, not even what they wanted to do! Their initial idea went like “something that uses a camera to sort garbage by type and material” – that was never going to happen, not in 45 days, and not with the allocated budget of no more than $USD30.00 they were allowed. Lets not even go to the machine learning stuff, training of the models etc…

So, I took over, and decided that we shall do a simple IoT Plant Watering Solution. It is complex enough for Grade 11 students, and more importantly, I knew that I could teach them enough Arduino coding and basic electronics skills in the time allotted to get the project completed successfully.

What followed was a few very intensive sessions after school to get the paperwork sorted. For some reason, their teacher required ALL paperwork be completed upfront, with the entire design and code prepared before they touched the practical stuff – A funny way to design stuff if you ask me, but that is how we did it…

We settled on the ESP8266 12-E NodeMCU v3 development board, A resistive soil sensor, a DHT11 for temperature and humidity data, a small OLED I2C display and a small 5v USB-powered water pump. While they ordered the components, we started with basic coding classes, and this is where the story changes.

These kids blew me away with their level of interest, their attitude to learning, and how quickly they grasped the concepts. In no time at all, they were coding basic sketches, taking readings, learning how the different sensors worked, and pushing the envelope by adding lots more complementary components like MOSFETs and BJT transistors.

With this level of enthusiasm, I could not help but also become very excited, and thus decided to go a bit further than usual and help them design a neat PCB baseboard for the NodeMCU. That way, we could get rid of all those pesky wire connections, and maybe even produce something that looked good.

This is what we came up with, here shown just after SMD component placing. They ( the students ) did all of that by themselves as well, and it turned out to be a lot of fun for them, with some funny moments for me as well.

The Assembly ( First time ever )

The PCB, together with a stencil, arrived from PCBWay on about the 15th of this month.

I choose PCBWay for my PCB manufacturing. Why? What makes them different from the rest?

PCBWay‘s business goal is to be the most professional PCB manufacturer for prototyping and low-volume production work in the world. With more than a decade in the business, they are committed to meeting the needs of their customers from different industries in terms of quality, delivery, cost-effectiveness and any other demanding requests. As one of the most experienced PCB manufacturers and SMT Assemblers in China, they pride themselves to be our (the Makers) best business partners, as well as good friends in every aspect of our PCB manufacturing needs. They strive to make our R&D work easy and hassle-free.

How do they do that?

PCBWay is NOT a broker. That means that they do all manufacturing and assembly themselves, cutting out all the middlemen, and saving us money.

PCBWay’s online quoting system gives a very detailed and accurate picture of all costs upfront, including components and assembly costs. This saves a lot of time and hassle.

PCBWay gives you one-on-one customer support, that answers you in 5 minutes ( from the Website chat ), or by email within a few hours ( from your personal account manager). Issues are really resolved very quickly, not that there are many anyway, but, as we are all human, it is nice to know that when a gremlin rears its head, you have someone to talk to who will do his/her best to resolve your issue as soon as possible.

Find out more here

This caused quite a lot of excitement from the students since they asked me to get to school immediately, and offered to stay after school to get the assembly done. So, I packed up all the components required, got in the car, and a few minutes later, we had an assembly line running 🙂

It took them only a few minutes to understand how to read the BOM file, use that information to find the right components and take turns to place a few components at a time onto the PCB. ( I did the solder paste and stencil thing on my own, as that could potentially turn out to be a very messy and wasteful operation if I let them do it )

During this assembly, they were quite amazed at what they were doing, but also quite confused as to how we would ” make the components stick to the PCB later”. They have seen soldering on YouTube, and could not understand how this “grey paste” could “turn hard and shiny” – with some even trying to rush their friends, as the paste would dry up and become sticky…

That signalled to me that we should get the hot air ready, and show them properly, as it would stop the speculation, and give them closure on their questions, because no matter how much I tried to explain that the solder paste would be melted later, they could not understand that concept.

Once I reflowed the first few components using hot air, they all once again took turns with a small group of components on the PCB ( We assembled 2 PCB’s to make sure everybody got a chance to try everything)

Through-hole soldering of the various header pins and other components was next. Once again, I showed them an example and then stepped back while they took over and completed the task. At this time it was about 17:30 already, so I sent them all home, with a promise to return the next day and complete the rest of the build.

Final Assembly and the Enclosure

We added some copper standoffs to the bottom of the enclosure, drilled some holes and mounted everything with screws and hot glue. The some final testing was performed, and the project was placed outside, next to a potted plant, and put on a sort of soak test, to verify operation for a few days.

A discussion of the circuit

In this circuit, I made use of a very cheap resistive soil moisture probe sensor. It consists of an etched PCB probe and a separate OPAMP on an additional PCB. This assembly then sends an analog voltage back to the Microprocessor for analysis. Very easy to use, and as mentioned, extremely cheap! But this is also a big problem. As seen in many other posts online, people don’t like these probes, as they don’t seem to last very long, and/or become unreliable over time.

I believe that this is due to the fact that they run them continuously, and that, causes the electrodes to erode away over time – because the thing about it, you are basically running an electrolysis cell – sending voltage/current through a probe, that is suspended in a conductive medium ( the water in the soil contains minerals etc – that is why it is conductive, and why we can get a reading from it )

How do I plan to avoid this problem then? The probe is powered through a small N-Channel MOSFET. This allows us to power the probe on when we want a reading, and then power it off again. It will definitely not completely stop the electrodes eroding away over time, but I am sure it will extend the usable lifetime of the probe by quite a bit. On the downside, you need another GPIO pin to control that MOSFET, but that in itself is also a great learning opportunity

Code

#include <SPI.h>
#include <Wire.h>
#include <Adafruit_GFX.h>
#include <Adafruit_SSD1306.h>
#include <Adafruit_Sensor.h>
#include <DHT.h>
#include <DHT_U.h>

#define SCREEN_WIDTH 128 // OLED display width, in pixels
#define SCREEN_HEIGHT 64 // OLED display height, in pixels

#define OLED_RESET     -1 // Reset pin # (or -1 if sharing Arduino reset pin)
#define SCREEN_ADDRESS 0x3C ///< See datasheet for Address; 0x3D for 128x64, 0x3C for 128x32


#define DHTTYPE    DHT11     // DHT 11
#define WaterRelay 2
#define A0Enable 14
#define DHTEnable 13
#define DHTPIN 12
#define WATER_DELAY 10000
#define WATER_LOW 20.00
#define SOIL_DELAY 5000

uint32_t delayMS;
float temperature = 0.00;
float humidity = 0.00;
float soilValue = 0.00;
float soilAverage = 0.00;
unsigned long previousMillis = 0;
unsigned long previousWater = 0;
unsigned long previousSoil = 0;
bool MAY_WATER = 0;
bool RUN_WATER = 0;
bool DELAY_WATER = 0;
sensor_t sensor;
const String WaterOn = "Waterpump ON";
const String WaterOff = "Waterpump OFF";
String WaterMessage = "";

Adafruit_SSD1306 display(SCREEN_WIDTH, SCREEN_HEIGHT, &Wire, OLED_RESET);
DHT_Unified dht(DHTPIN, DHTTYPE);



void setup() {
  
  pinMode(WaterRelay,OUTPUT);
  pinMode(A0Enable,OUTPUT);
  pinMode(DHTEnable,OUTPUT);
  digitalWrite(WaterRelay,HIGH);
  //Serial.begin(115200);
  if(!display.begin(SSD1306_SWITCHCAPVCC, SCREEN_ADDRESS)) {
    //Serial.println(F("SSD1306 allocation failed"));
    for(;;); // Don't proceed, loop forever
  }
  display.ssd1306_command(SSD1306_DISPLAYON);
  display.clearDisplay();
  display.display();
  delay(20);
  display.setTextSize(1);
  display.setTextColor(SSD1306_WHITE);
  display.setCursor(10,10);
  display.print("Booting...");
  display.display();
  delay(2000);
  
  dht.begin();
  
  show_DHT_Params();
  
}

void loop() {
  
  
  

  //Soil Monitor Loop
  unsigned long SoilMillis = millis();
  if ( SoilMillis - previousSoil >= SOIL_DELAY) {
    previousSoil = SoilMillis;
    take_soil_reading();
  }
  //End Soil Monitor Loop

  //Water Loop
  unsigned long WaterMillis = millis();
  if (WaterMillis - previousWater >= WATER_DELAY) {
    previousWater = WaterMillis;
    if ((digitalRead(WaterRelay) == LOW) && (RUN_WATER == 1) && ( DELAY_WATER == 0)) {
      digitalWrite(WaterRelay,HIGH);
      DELAY_WATER = 1;
    } else if (DELAY_WATER == 1) {
      DELAY_WATER = 0;
      if (RUN_WATER == 1) RUN_WATER = 0;
    }
  }
  // End Water Loop
  // Main One Second Delay Loop
  unsigned long currentMillis = millis();
  if (currentMillis - previousMillis >= delayMS) {
    previousMillis = currentMillis;
    get_DHT_Readings();
    show_Soil_Data();
    display.display();
  }
  // End Main 1 Second Loop
  if ((soilAverage < WATER_LOW) && (RUN_WATER == 0)) {
    RUN_WATER = 1;
    MAY_WATER = 1;
  } else if (soilAverage >= WATER_LOW) {
    RUN_WATER = 0;
    MAY_WATER = 0; 
  }

  if ((digitalRead(WaterRelay) == HIGH) && (RUN_WATER == 1) && DELAY_WATER == 0) {
      digitalWrite(WaterRelay,LOW);
      WaterMessage = WaterOn;
      take_soil_reading();
  }
  if ((DELAY_WATER == 1) && (MAY_WATER == 1)) {
      digitalWrite(WaterRelay,HIGH);
      WaterMessage = WaterOff;
  }
  
}

void take_soil_reading() {
  digitalWrite(A0Enable,HIGH);
  delay(50);
  
  float tempSoil = 0.00;
  for (int i = 0; i <10 ; i++) {
    soilValue = (1024.00 - analogRead(A0));
    tempSoil = tempSoil + soilValue;
    delay(2);
  }
  soilAverage = map(tempSoil/10,0.00,1023.00,0.00,100.00);
  delay(30);
  digitalWrite(A0Enable,LOW);
}

void show_DHT_Params() {
  digitalWrite(DHTEnable,HIGH);
  
  dht.temperature().getSensor(&sensor);
  display.clearDisplay();
  display.display();
  display.setTextSize(1);
  display.setTextColor(SSD1306_WHITE);
  display.setCursor(10,1);
  display.print("Temperature Sensor");
  display.setCursor(10,10);
  display.print(F("Type: "));
  display.print(sensor.version);
  display.setCursor(10,20);
  display.print(F("Min: "));
  display.print(sensor.min_value);
  display.print(F(" Deg C"));
  display.setCursor(10,30);
  display.print(F("Max: "));
  display.print(sensor.max_value);
  display.print(F(" Deg C"));
  display.setCursor(10,40);
  display.print(F("Resolution: +/- "));
  display.setCursor(10,50);
  display.print(sensor.resolution);
  display.print(F(" Deg C"));
  display.display();
  delay(4000);
  dht.humidity().getSensor(&sensor);
  display.clearDisplay();
  display.display();
  display.setTextSize(1);
  display.setTextColor(SSD1306_WHITE);
  display.setCursor(10,1);
  display.print("Humidity Sensor");
  display.setCursor(10,10);
  display.print(F("Type: "));
  display.print(sensor.version);
  display.setCursor(10,20);
  display.print(F("Min: "));
  display.print(sensor.min_value);
  display.print(F(" % RH"));
  display.setCursor(10,30);
  display.print(F("Max: "));
  display.print(sensor.max_value);
  display.print(F(" % RH"));
  display.setCursor(10,40);
  display.print(F("Resolution: +/- "));
   display.setCursor(10,50);
  display.print(sensor.resolution);
  display.print(F(" % RH"));
  display.display();
  delay(4000);
  
  delayMS = sensor.min_delay / 1000;
}

void get_DHT_Readings() {
    
    display.clearDisplay();
    display.setTextSize(2);
    display.setTextColor(SSD1306_WHITE);
    sensors_event_t event;
    dht.temperature().getEvent(&event);
    if (isnan(event.temperature)) {
      #ifdef DEBUG-SERIAL
      Serial.println(F("Error reading temperature!"));
      #endif
    }
    else {
      display.setCursor(10,1);
     
      display.setCursor(10,1);
      display.print(event.temperature);
      display.setCursor(80,1);
      display.println(F(" C"));
      temperature = event.temperature;
    }
    // Get humidity event and print its value.
    dht.humidity().getEvent(&event);
    if (isnan(event.relative_humidity)) {
     display.clearDisplay();
    display.setTextSize(2);
    display.setTextColor(SSD1306_WHITE);
    sensors_event_t event;
    dht.temperature().getEvent(&event);
    if (isnan(event.temperature)) {
      #ifdef DEBUG-SERIAL
      Serial.println(F("Error reading temperature!"));
      #endif
    }
    else {
      
      display.setCursor(10,1);
      display.print(event.temperature);
      display.setCursor(80,1);
      display.println(F(" C"));
      temperature = event.temperature;
    }
    // Get humidity event and print its value.
    dht.humidity().getEvent(&event);
    if (isnan(event.relative_humidity)) {
      #ifdef DEBUG-SERIAL
      Serial.println(F("Error reading humidity!"));
      #endif
    }
    else {
      display.setCursor(10,20);
      display.print(event.relative_humidity);
      display.setCursor(80,20);
      display.println(F(" %"));
      humidity = event.relative_humidity;
    }
    }
    else {
      display.setCursor(10,20);
      display.print(event.relative_humidity);
      display.setCursor(80,20);
      display.println(F(" %RH"));
      humidity = event.relative_humidity;
    }
    
}

void show_Soil_Data() {
  display.setTextSize(2);
  display.setTextColor(SSD1306_WHITE);
  display.setCursor(10,39);
  display.print(soilAverage);
  display.setCursor(80,39);
  display.println(F(" %"));
  display.setTextSize(1);
  display.setCursor(10,56);
  display.println(WaterMessage);
}

Conclusion

This project was extremely interesting. It was something very basic, but it gave me a very unique opportunity to teach a group of kids something they never knew before. It also initiated a spark in many of them, who are now interested in getting involved in electronics as a hobby. The possibilities of this project, if it is improved a bit more, could also be great. For example, we did not even consider adding IoT connectivity to this yet, we all decided that it was not needed, and an unnecessary complication of an already complex issue ( to the students that is). I shall keep monitoring the operation of the device over the next few weeks, and hopefully get some answers myself as to how long that soil probe will last… As a control, we have another one that was left powered on in the same container. That one are not being used to take readings, but will definitely provide us with a good comparison against the probe that is only on then used…

Multi-Purpose IO Card

When we are working on a prototype, we always need access to pushbuttons, encoders and even displays to test our ideas in the real world. This Multi-Purpose IO Card was designed to help me do just that…

What is on the PCB?

This PCB was designed with my particular work style in mind. I use a lot of I2C devices, IO Expanders, Displays and sensors. It would thus make sense to have I2C on the PCB, to control an OLED display, as well as a PCF8574 IO expander, that is used to drive a 4×4 Matrix Keypad. Two Rotary encoders, as well as another 4 standard push buttons completes the PCB…

The features, summarised is as follows:

1x Matrix Keypad (4×4) Controlled via an PCF8574 IO expander with selectable addressing.
1x SSD1306 OLED I2C Display
4x Momentary pushbuttons, configured to be used with internal pullups – i.e pushing the button pulls the GPIO LOW
2x Rotary Encoders, with integrated Pushbutton, also configured as Active LOW

The board has all of the connectors and jumpers on the back, making it possible to mount it to an enclosure as a control panel.

I have also provided an additional I2C header to make it possible to add additional devices to the I2C bus easily

The PCB in Detail

Starting from left to right, we have two push-buttons, an OLED display, with two rotary encoders below the display, and another two momentary push buttons. On the Right, we have a 4×4 matrix keypad, and various pin headers for connection to a microcontroller of your choice.

On the back, we have the PCF8574 IO expander for the Matric keypad, addressing Jumpers for the IO expander, as well as the two pin headers for connections to and from a microcontroller…

The Pinouts of these are as follows:
Horizontal 15 pin 2.54mm connector
SDA I2C Data
SCA I2C Clock

GND

SW4 Momentary Push Button 4
SW3 Momentary Push Button 3
SW2 Momentary Push Button 2
SW1 Momentary Push Button 1

RE2-D Rotary Encoder 2 Push Button
RE2-B Rotary Encoder 2 Pin B
RE2-A Rotary Encoder 2 Pin A

RE1-D Rotary Encoder 1 Push Button
RE1-B Rotary Encoder 1 Pin B
RE1-A Rotary Encoder 1 Pin A

GND
VCC 3.3v to 5v DC

The Expansion header extends the I2C Bus, as well as proved access to the interrupt pin on the PCF8574. VCC and GND are also provided.

The Schematic

Manufacturing the PCB

PCBWay gives you one-on-one customer support, that answers you in 5 minutes ( from the Website chat ), or by email within a few hours ( from your personal account manager). Issues are really resolved very quickly, not that there are many anyway, but, as we are all human, it is nice to know that when a gremlin rears its head, you have someone to talk to that will do his/her best to resolve your issue as soon as possible.

Find out more here

Assembly and Testing

The assembly of this PCB was relatively easy, as it contains only a single SMD component. I do however have to alert you to a certain caveat…

On the PCB, the I2C OLED display pinout is, from left to right,

VCC GND SDC SDA

I have however come across similar displays that swap the GND and VCC pins… and some that even have SCL and SDA swapped…

It is thus quite important that you check your display BEFORE soldering it to this PCB…

Addressing the PCF8574 is also quite easy, with the jumper towards the top is a high, and towards the bottom is a low… They are marked A2 A1 A0 and thus, counting in binary, all low will be 0x20h and all high will be ox27h

Also, note that there are NO I2C Pullup resistors on the board. My microcontroller PCB’s usually have these already, and most I2C Sensors, including the OLED Display that we use, already include as well…
You should thus check what you have on your own hardware, as it is quite impossible to cater for every situation… In a future version, I may add selectable pullup resistors onto this board as well…

Coding and Firmware

The possible uses of this board is quite broad, and the code possibilities are thus also quite extensive. Since I mainly use ESPHome or the Arduino IDE with most of my projects, I wont be including any specialised code here. I think it is enough to say that almost all of the available PCF8574 Matrix Keypad libraries available for the Arduino IDE will fork with this board…

The pinouts are important, and thus :

Row 0 – P0
Row 1 – P1
Row 2 – P2
Row 4 – P3

Col 0 – P7
Col 1 – P6
Col 2 – P5
Col 3 – P4

As far as ESPHome goes, you will need to
1) Add an I2c bus for your device
2)Add a PCF8574 component
3)Add a Matrix Keypad component, and refer the rows and columns to the pins on the PCF8574 – See below for an example of how I have done that in a previous project.

#I2C bus

i2c:

sda: 4

scl: 5

scan: true

id: I2C_Bus

#
# In my case, SDA is on GPIO4 and SCL is on GPIO5
# This is similar to the standard configuration on a NodeMCU v2 Dev board
#

#
# The next step is to configure the actual IO Expander, which in my case is located 
# at address 0x27
#

#PCF8574

pcf8574:

- id: 'pcf8574_hub'

address: 0x27

pcf8575: false


#
# Now we can add the actual keypad interface to the YAML file
# Take note of the difference from the ESP32 file above.
#
#

#KEYPAD

matrix_keypad:

id: mykeypad

rows:

- pin:

pcf8574: pcf8574_hub

# Use pin number 0

number: 0

# In the ESP32 file, we wHereould specify a pin directly like:
#
# -pin: 17
#
# That approach will not work for us.
# The reason for that is that we have to redirect the GPIO to a 
# physical pin on the PCF8574 IO expander.
#
# That is done with the following syntax
#
# - pin:
#pcf8574: pcf8574_hub -- This is the ID of the PCF8574 device -
#number: 0 -- The actual pin number

- pin:

pcf8574: pcf8574_hub

# Use pin number 0

number: 1

- pin:

pcf8574: pcf8574_hub

# Use pin number 0

number: 2

- pin:

pcf8574: pcf8574_hub

# Use pin number 0

number: 3

columns:

- pin:

pcf8574: pcf8574_hub

# Use pin number 0

number: 7

- pin:

pcf8574: pcf8574_hub

# Use pin number 0

number: 6

- pin:

pcf8574: pcf8574_hub

# Use pin number 0

number: 5

- pin:

pcf8574: pcf8574_hub

# Use pin number 0

number: 4

keys: "123A456B789C*0#D"

has_diodes: false

The Rotary encoders and momentary push-buttons can be handled in the same manner, using standard libraries in the Arduino IDE, or a rotary encoder component in ESPHome…

The OLED display would also be handled as above, with a DISPLAY component in ESPHome…

Summary and next steps

The next steps, for me at least, would be to design and CNC cut a suitable enclosure for the IO panel/Control panel in order to make it easier to use…

The panel was designed to be a tool to aid me while designing, and part of my never-ending battle getting rid of breadboards.

It does its job well, at least so far, and works as I have intended it to.

Simple Smart Light Controller

Adding a bit of automation to a certain area of the house can definitely help with saving energy. With this Simple Smart Light Controller, I aimed to do just that… Let me give you a tiny bit of context… Houses in SE Asia are built to some “questionable” standards and designs, and electrical installations are usually even more suspect… Our house is no exception. Being a rental, I do not want to go and make changes unless things are outright dangerous… Kitchens are usually a mixture of inside/outside areas, and this is where my device fits in…

The light in the outside kitchen consists of a simple bulb that the owner has routed into the house via an electrical flex cord, at least that was standard… But, due to laziness or just whatever, that cord was never terminated into a proper switch… He just added a plug. This is thus my opportunity to make life a bit easier for myself in that area. I could have opted for a standard switch, but then, automating this can take care of another problem… We constantly forget to switch that light off, as the plug is in a “strange place” that is not usually associated with the kitchen lights…

What I have thus come up with is a simple ESP8266-based solution with a single relay ( optically isolated from the board), as well as a few additional GPIO pins, just in case I want to hang some additional sensors onto this in the future.

The device should also be powered directly from the mains, as adding another external AC to DC adapter would definitely NOT do at all!

What is on the PCB

Lets look at the empty PCB, in order to understand better what is where on the board.

Starting on the Left Side, at the bottom corner, we have our mains voltage input, 220V or 110V, depending on where you live. That goes directly into U1, which is a AC-to-DC converter, providing 3.3v at 1A to the board. Note that I did not place a fuse directly on the board. I prefer to have an inline fuse on the line, which is also accessible from the enclosure.

A series of cutouts on the PCB provides additional mains isolation and also prevents mains voltage tracking towards other tracks in the event of a fault.
The Mains area also does not have a copper pour.

In the top left corner, towards the center, is a WAKE jumper. This is connected to GPIO16 and can be used to wake the ESP8266 from “deep sleep” if configured in the firmware.

Relay K1, and its screw terminal connector is in the bottom center of the board, with the relay contacts clearly labelled.

On the right of the PCB, we have the programming header, complete with Auto Flash and Reset circuitry, as well as manual Flash and Reset Buttons below that.

A 3×3 header connector follows, with access to 3.3v, Ground as well as 3 additional GPIO pins for other applications.

Finally, we have the relay control switch, with a few options to connect external switches, either on the 2.54mm header, or via wires soldered to the pads marked SW-A and SW-B

The populated PCB will thus make more sense if we look at the picture above now since we had a detailed look at it above…

Schematic_ESP8266-Smart-light-switch_2023-07-03 Download

The Schematic is made available at the link above.

Configuration and Software

This build was designed with ESPHome in mind, so we will focus on that there.
You can however very easily use standard Arduino/ESP8266 code to control this as well…

The YAML configuration for the device will be as follows: (note that this is quite simplified, as I am still fine-tuning the actual features that I require)

esphome:
  name: smart-switch-01
  friendly_name: SMART-SWITCH-01

esp8266:
  board: nodemcuv2
  restore_from_flash: true

# Enable logging
logger:

# Enable Home Assistant API
api:
  encryption:
    key: "hfYNn8KSbVq26rGkPOJo4yLj/d/WY7Hk0H3TmxlWZAU="

ota:
  password: "85ed2a8afcd61d0f4c65db7b92bdacc5"

wifi:
  ssid: !secret wifi_ssid
  password: !secret wifi_password

  # Enable fallback hotspot (captive portal) in case wifi connection fails
  ap:
    ssid: "Smart-Switch-01 Fallback Hotspot"
    password: "XovAx4n1H1qT"

captive_portal:

text_sensor:
  - platform: wifi_info
    ip_address:
      name: IP Address
    ssid:
      name: SSID
    bssid:
      name: BSSID
    mac_address:
      name: Wifi MAC
    scan_results:
      name: WiFi Scan Results


sensor:
  - platform: adc
    pin: VCC
    name: "ESP8266 Chip Voltage"
    id: mcu_voltage
    unit_of_measurement: "V"
    device_class: "voltage"
    accuracy_decimals: 2
    update_interval: 60s
    entity_category: "diagnostic"
    
  - platform: wifi_signal
    name: "WiFi Signal Sensor"
    id: wifi_strength
    device_class: "signal_strength"
    unit_of_measurement: "dBm"
    update_interval: 240s
    entity_category: "diagnostic"

  - platform: copy # Reports the WiFi signal strength in %
    source_id: wifi_strength
    name: "WiFi Signal Strength"
    filters:
      - lambda: return min(max(2 * (x + 100.0), 0.0), 100.0);
    unit_of_measurement: "%"
    entity_category: "diagnostic"


light:
 # - platform: status_led
 #   pin: GPIO13
 #   id: status_indicator
 #   name: "ID Light"
    
  - platform: binary
    name: "Kitchen Outside Light"
    output: relay_01
    id: kitchen_light
    on_turn_on:
    - light.turn_on:
        id: slow_light
        effect: "Slow Pulse"
    

    on_turn_off:
    - light.turn_off: slow_light
    

  - platform: monochromatic
    id: slow_light
    output: light_status
    restore_mode: RESTORE_AND_OFF
    effects:
      - pulse:
          name: "Slow Pulse"
          # transition_length: 1s      # defaults to 1s
          update_interval: 2s

binary_sensor:
  - platform: gpio
    pin:
      number: GPIO5
      mode:
        input: true
        pullup: true
    id: kitchen_light_toggle
    filters:
      - delayed_on: 200ms
      - delayed_off: 200ms
    on_press:
      then:
        - light.toggle: kitchen_light
  - platform: status
    name: "Kitchen Light Controller"
     
switch:
  - platform: restart
    name: "Restart Device"

# Relay output
output:
  - platform: gpio
    id: relay_01
    pin: GPIO4
    inverted: true
  - platform: esp8266_pwm
    id: light_status
    pin: GPIO12

Manufacturing the PCB

PCBWay gives you one-on-one customer support, that answers you in 5 minutes ( from the Website chat ), or by email within a few hours ( from your personal account manager). Issues are really resolved very quickly, not that there are many anyway, but, as we are all human, it is nice to know that when a gremlin rears its head, you have someone to talk to that will do his/her best to resolve your issue as soon as possible.

Find out more here

Assembly and Testing

This device does not need a stencil for assembly, but using one will definitely speed up things. I chose to do this build all by hand, from applying solder-paste, up to placing components.

Soldering was done on a hotplate, as usual, to reflow everything at the same time. TH components were then placed and hand-soldered.

Uploading the initial firmware, after adding the device to ESPHome was done with an external USB-to-UART converter. All further firmware changes were made via OTA.

It is important to mention here that this PCB is powered by mains voltage. I chose to use an inline fuse, BEFORE the connector on the PCB. It is also notable that the relay common is connected to the live wire, BEFORE the fuse, as the lightbulb acts as its own fuse – it blows when a fault occurs.

The Lightbulb neutral will be connected to the circuit breaker, together with the device live and neutral.

This way, the fuse only acts on the actual device, and I can use a lower-rating fuse, since I do not have to accommodate the current from the lightbulb as well…

Summary

The device works as planned, with no problems…
Below is some pictures from it in Home Assistant

LED COB Controller

COB LED lights, or Chip-on-Board LED lights, are a type of LED light that has all of the LED chips mounted on a single substrate. This makes them more efficient than traditional LED lights, which have individual LED chips mounted on a circuit board. COB LED lights also produce a more uniform light output, and they can be used in a wider variety of applications.

Here are some of the benefits of using LED COB lights:

are very efficient, and they can produce up to 100 lumens per watt. This means that they use less energy than traditional light bulbs, and they can save you money on your energy bills.
produce a more uniform light output than traditional LED lights. This means that they do not create hot spots or shadows, and they provide a more comfortable light to work under.
are very durable, and they can last for many years. They are not as susceptible to damage from heat or vibration as traditional light bulbs, and they can withstand harsh conditions.
can be used in a wide variety of applications, including indoor and outdoor lighting, commercial and residential lighting, and automotive lighting.

They can however be quite a pain to power in a traditional 110v/220v AC wired house or workshop, as some of them actually required DC current to work.
I have decided to use a pair of them to provide additional, dimmable light at my electronics workbench, a place where extra light is sometimes a very necessary commodity. The ability to dim the lights will definitely aid in many scenarios as well.

The project consists of two main parts, the first being the Variable Voltage Power Module, which I published a few days ago. The particular COB lights that I will be using, were scavenged from a battery-operated emergency light panel, which had some problems which were not economical to repair. The light modules themselves, however, looked good and were perfectly working as well.
The only issue was that they were 6v DC. So using straight 12v there was out of the question. 6V being an odd voltage in my lab, I designed the module above specifically to provide that.

LED COB Controller stacked on top of Variable Voltage Poser Module

The second part of the project consists of a simple Custom ESP-12E PCB. Why ESP12-E? Well, I have a lot of them lying in stock, and since I won’t need any advanced features, commonly found on the bigger ESP32s, I decided to design around something that I have in stock, rather than overcomplicate the design with a bigger more advanced chip. The project features a rotary encoder, to adjust light intensity, as well as push buttons to toggle the lights on or off…

All of this is of course controlled with ESPHome. This choice gives me the option of manual or fully automatic control from HomeAssistant. It also saves me a lot of coding, as everything usually just works.

What is on the PCB?

We shall focus mainly on LED COB Controller PCB.
In order to understand everything, please refer to the picture below:

The board consists of a few sections, which can be divided as follows:

ESP-12E (8266) supporting circuitry

The top area is mainly the supporting circuitry for the ESP-12E, which includes a 6-pin header to flash firmware, the classic ESP32/8266 Auto Flash/Reset circuit, and manual Flash and Reset switches. Note that the board DOES NOT contain any USB-to-Serial circuitry. I usually use those only once or twice, and update firmware OTA after that. Using an external USB-to-Serial adapter is thus sufficient for my purposes.

Power and LED Control circuitry

Power enters the board in the center, using header pins mounted on the bottom of the PCB. From left to right, these are 3.3v and then two variable voltage inputs. These all originate from the Variable voltage Power Module, mounted below the main PCB. The LED Control circuitry consists of two P-Channel Mosfets, the configuration of which was previously tested in another project, the “P-MOS MOSFET Driver Board“, also published a few weeks ago. The SI2301 P-Channel Logic Level MOSFET, used here is capable of switching up to 2.3A at 20v, and thus more than capable of handling the 300mA that the LED COB modules require.

Four cutouts are provided to access test points on the power module below, as well as the potentiometers used to set the voltage that will ultimately be sent to the LED COB Modules.

Wide copper traces connect the Mosfet’s to Screw Terminals for the LED Modules.

The Final part of the PCB is dedicated to control interfaces. A single 6-way screw terminal is provided at the bottom left corner, this is used to connect a rotary encoder, or give direct access to additional GPIO pins. On the Right hand side of the PCB, a series of header pins give access to additional 3.3v and ground connections, in addition to GPIO 4 and 5, which is usually used for I2C…

The Schematic

Configuration and Software

As mentioned above, this device was designed to be used with ESPHome. The configuration is thus a single YAML file and can be greatly customised to suit your exact needs…

With that in mind, I present here a VERY basic YAML file, that will toggle the LED lights on or off on pressing the encoder switch, as well as adjust the brightness by turning the encoder.

esphome:
  name: led-cob-controller
  friendly_name: LED_COB-Controller

esp8266:
  board: nodemcuv2
  restore_from_flash: True

# Enable logging
logger:

# Enable Home Assistant API
api:
  encryption:
    key: "<esphome generated>"

ota:
  password: "<esphome generated>"

wifi:
  ssid: !secret wifi_ssid
  password: !secret wifi_password

  # Enable fallback hotspot (captive portal) in case wifi connection fails
  ap:
    ssid: "Led-Cob-Controller"
    password: "<your recovery password here>"

captive_portal:

# I suggest you only copy paste from here on downwards.
# Setup the default device in ESPHome, and when it is available,
# come back and add the commands below here


    
text_sensor:
  - platform: wifi_info
    ip_address:
      name: IP Address
    ssid:
      name: SSID
    bssid:
      name: BSSID
    mac_address:
      name: Wifi MAC
    scan_results:
      name: WiFi Scan Results
     


sensor:
  - platform: adc
    pin: VCC
    name: "ESP8266 Chip Voltage"
    id: mcu_voltage
    unit_of_measurement: "V"
    device_class: "voltage"
    accuracy_decimals: 2
    update_interval: 60s
    entity_category: "diagnostic"
    
  - platform: wifi_signal
    name: "WiFi Signal Sensor"
    id: wifi_strength
    device_class: "signal_strength"
    unit_of_measurement: "dBm"
    update_interval: 240s
    entity_category: "diagnostic"

  - platform: copy # Reports the WiFi signal strength in %
    source_id: wifi_strength
    name: "WiFi Signal Strength"
    filters:
      - lambda: return min(max(2 * (x + 100.0), 0.0), 100.0);
    unit_of_measurement: "%"
    entity_category: "diagnostic"

  - platform: copy
    source_id: rcbright
    name: "LED Light Brightness"
    unit_of_measurement: "%"
    filters:
      - lambda: return (x * 100);

  - platform: rotary_encoder
    name: "Brightness Control"
    id: rcbright
    min_value: 0.00
    max_value: 100.00
    publish_initial_value: True
    restore_mode: RESTORE_DEFAULT_ZERO

    pin_a: 
      number: GPIO13
      inverted: True
      mode:
        input: True
        pullup: True
      
    pin_b: 
      number: GPIO2
      inverted: True
      mode: 
        input: True
        pullup: True

    resolution: 1
    accuracy_decimals: 2
    filters:
    - lambda: return x / 100 ;
    on_clockwise:
    - light.control:
        id: led_light1
        brightness: !lambda |-
          // output value must be in range 0 - 1.0
          return id(rcbright).state ; // /100.0;
    - light.control:
        id: led_light2
        brightness: !lambda |-
          // output value must be in range 0 - 1.0
          return id(rcbright).state ; // /100.0;
    on_anticlockwise:
    - light.control:
        id: led_light1
        brightness: !lambda |-
          return id(rcbright).state ;   
    - light.control:
        id: led_light2
        brightness: !lambda |-
          // output value must be in range 0 - 1.0
          return id(rcbright).state ; // /100.0;  

binary_sensor:
  - platform: gpio
    pin: GPIO14
    id: light_switch
    name: "Light Switch"
    device_class: light
    on_click:
      then:
        - light.toggle: led_light1
        - light.toggle: led_light2
    

light:
  - platform: monochromatic
    name: "LED1_LIGHT_TEST"
    id: led_light1
    output: output_component1
  - platform: monochromatic
    name: "LED2_LIGHT_TEST"
    id: led_light2
    output: output_component2

# Example output entry
output:
  - platform: esp8266_pwm
    id: output_component1
    pin: GPIO12
  - platform: esp8266_pwm
    id: output_component2
    pin: GPIO16

Manufacturing the PCB

PCBWay gives you one-on-one customer support, that answers you in 5 minutes ( from the Website chat ), or by email within a few hours ( from your personal account manager). Issues are really resolved very quickly, not that there are many anyway, but, as we are all human, it is nice to know that when a gremlin rears its head, you have someone to talk to that will do his/her best to resolve your issue as soon as possible.

Find out more here

Assembly and Testing

Uploading the initial firmware, after adding the device to ESPHome was done with an external USB-to-UART converter. All further firmware changes were made via OTA.

The board performs well, with only slight heating of the LM317G variable voltage regulators on the power module when both LED COB modules are at 100% brightness. The current draw is within limits and seems to peak at about 600mA per COB…

Conclusion

This project took quite a while to move from idea to practical reality, mainly due to being busy with other more important stuff. In the end, I am happy that I sat down and did it, because it definitely will become a valuable tool in my work area.

Variable Voltage Power Module

Powering electronics projects are always challenging. This Variable voltage Power Module was designed to solve such a problem for a specific project that I am working on.

The ESP32 and their smaller cousin the ESP8266 are pretty well known for their high power requirements. Having used quite a few of these in various projects over the years, I wanted a power module that can supply me with enough current to keep these hungry little chips satisfied. I also needed variable voltages with more modest current capabilities, to drive LED COB modules for example.

The idea thus came to me to combine two recent projects, that I have been using together on the bench with great effect. These two are the Variable Breadboard Power Module, based on the LM317G, and the DC-DC Buck Converter that I designed a short time ago. Between these two devices, I can deliver up to 3A at 3v or 5v, or a variable voltage at up to 1.5A.

Let us take a look at what exactly was done here.

What is on the PCB?

The PCB consists of 3 independent power circuits, the first of which is a DC-to-DC Buck module, based on the MP9943 from MPS. This chip can source up to 3A at a preset voltage. In my case, I chose 3.3v and 5v, as I use those the most.

The second and third parts are a mirrored section, with the humble LM317G at their hearts. These are set up as variable voltage regulators, with their outputs adjustable via R10 and R13. These two can source two independent voltages, from about 1.0v right up to about 11.5v ( if VCC is 12V) at a respectable 1.5A or current.

All of this is powered by a single 12v Power supply. Note that the 12v supply should be capable of sourcing at least 3A of its own…

The stepped-down voltages are provided via 3 2-way headers at the top of the PCB.

How do you use the board?

Using the module is easy. Power it from 12v DC ( or up to 24v if you really want to)

The 3.3v or 5v output is selected using jumper J1 ( Please switch the power off first, BEFORE you change this). The selected voltage will be available at H1

H2 and H3 provide variable voltages, that can be set using R10 for H2 and R13 for H3. Turning the potentiometer anti-clockwise will reduce the voltage, clockwise to increase.

Test points ( TP1 and TP2) can be probed with a multimeter while adjusting the voltages.

The Schematic

Manufacturing the PCB

PCBWay gives you one-on-one customer support, that answers you in 5 minutes ( from the Website chat ), or by email within a few hours ( from your personal account manager). Issues are really resolved very quickly, not that there are many anyway, but, as we are all human, it is nice to know that when a gremlin rears its head, you have someone to talk to that will do his/her best to resolve your issue as soon as possible.

Find out more here

Assembly

This PCB uses some very tiny components, so a stencil is highly recommended.

The Buck Converter IC is especially tiny.

Most of the other components can be soldered by hand, but I chose to do the entire assembly on a hotplate to reflow everything at the same time.

Testing

After assembly, I tested everything, measuring voltages with a multimeter, as well as adjusted H2 and H3 down to 6v, as I would be using the module on another project. I also tested the ripple on the Buck converter with an Oscilloscope, and it was well within the specs stated by the datasheet, at about +/- 100mV.

The entire module draws about 650mA at no load, and up to 3A when powering 2 6v LED COB modules and an ESP32 with I2S Audio modules connected as well.
Most of the current actually being drawn by the LM317G chips. The Buck converter is actually quite economical, drawing a modest 500mA at full load
( tested with a separate module that only contains a single buck converter module).

Conclusion

The power module works exactly as expected. It will perform well for its intended purpose, i.e powering an ESP12-E (8266) ESPHome device with two 6v LED COB modules in PWM mode, as well as an I2C display and various other sensors. In that application, I have successfully tested the entire project with a modest 12v at 1A wall-brick transformer, with no overheating or power shortage on any of the components. That is thus a win, in my books at least.

Redesigning my MCP23017 breakout

In a previous post, I designed a breadboard-friendly MCP23017 breakout module. A few months have passed, and after using the module for a while, some issues came to light…

In this post, I will show you how I have fixed those issues, and then I can continue testing/using the new generation prototype, and hopefully, it can become the final revision of this project.

Old Versus New

Let us start by looking at the old and new PCB designs…

There will not be a lot of obvious differences at first, but if we look closely, here are the changes:
– In the old version, due to the size of the SOIC28 footprint, I had to place the bypass capacitors, as well as I2C pullup resistors on the bottom layer of the PCB.

The new design, using the more readily available ( at least where I live) SSOP28 footprint, leaves enough space for these components on the top layer, thus resulting in a mostly single-layer layout, with only a few tracks on the bottom layer.
I2C pull-up resistors can now be controlled by a jumper, enabling or disabling them completely… This helps when adding a few devices to the I2C bus, and rather having the pull-up’s close to the MCU ( as is generally recommended anyway )
Other cosmetic changes involve the separation of the data ports (A and B) from the interrupts, reset, Vcc and ground pins. On initial testing of this on a breadboard, it makes using the device a bit easier, and access to the io pins faster. ( In my biased opinion anyway )

MCP23017 Breakout Module — MCP23017 Breakout – New version

Pinouts and connections

I have tried to make all the connections easy to find and use, with the IO ports ( A and B) on opposite sides of the breakout, Numbered A7 to A0 on the top, and B7 to B0 on the bottom.
VCC, GND, SCL and SDA are on a separate 4-way header pin, with the two interrupt pins (I-A and I-B) together with the reset (RST) pin on a 3-way header opposite the power and signal header..

Addressing pins are in the centre of the PCB, marked with a 2 1 0 ( for AD2, AD1, and AD0 respectively), Jumpers to the bottom ( towards port B) pull the pins to ground, where the opposite side will pull the address pins high.

To the right of that, another 3-way jumper enables or disables the I2C pull-resistors on the module, which in this case is set at 4k7.

Manufacturing

The PCB for this project has been manufactured at PCBWay.
Please consider supporting them if you would like your own copy of this PCB, or if you have any PCB of your own that you need to have manufactured.

Some More Pictures

A RISC-V IoT Development Board

Most of us will not know about RISC-V, or have had access to a RISC-V Chip.
This will thus be truly one of the most difficult posts I have written, due to many factors…

To name a few of these:
– The learning curve is extremely steep because there is extremely limited information available on the chip
– I can not at the moment allowed to divulge any information on the chip used, as I have received a few “sneak-preview” modules, and the manufacturer, who shall also remain anonymous for now, has not released it to the public yet.
– Most of the information available on the BL-602 ( on which the chip is based) is in relation to the BL-IOT-SDK, or Apache NuttX, an RTOS for use with microcontrollers.
While the NuttX project has excellent documentation, it is written in a very technical style, and focused on very basic, very advanced or very specific things. This will hopefully be improved upon to make it more “new-end-user-that-is-learning” friendly in future.

As most of us can no doubt see, This post is quite a challenge. I will thus focus on the PCB I designed to use with the “mystery BL-602” chip, and provide a lot of links to where you can get information on Apache NuttX, as well as how to use it with the BL-602 in general.

Once the module has been officially released, I will do a followup-post, with specific documentation etc, which, although I have already got some of it in my possession, I can not release at the moment for ethical reasons.

I think it fair to tell you all this much, and , unintentionally, have to create anticipation on what and where etc… My apologies for that, but rules are rules, and secrets are meant to be kept, until told otherwise…

So, lets get started. Some links to get you started and show you where this is going…

Apache Nuttx is the RTOS that you will most likely have to use to do anything useful with the BL-602 chip, as well as other microcontrollers, notably the ESP32-S3 and some of the STM32 chips.

Bouffalo Labs are the people behind the BL-602, as well as the BL-IOT-SDK, which will also be quite useful in designing solutions around the BL-602

Run Rust on RISC-V Firmware will provide some excellent points to get started

LEE Lup Yuen seems to be the kind person who has written most of the extensive and useful documentation on NuttX and the BL-602, amongst others…

NuttX Incubator on Github is a very detailed source, also by Mr Lee Lup Yuen, that aims to get us started with the BL-602 and NuttX – This link is HIGHLY recommended!

My Prototype PCB

Carrier PCB – Disclaimer – I have edited the silkscreen to remove Chip markings- This will be released to the public at a later stage. As mentioned above, it is necessary at this moment to keep this information confidential.

I decided to design an extremely basic, bare PCB with basically just the BL-602 chip and its supporting circuitry. This will allow me to focus only on the chip, as well as provide maximum flexibility in the future by the addition of add-on shields with specific functions. with this in mind, I purposely chose a PCB footprint similar to the Arduino UNO.

It is also worth mentioning that the chip module used on this PCB IS NOT a standard BL-602, although the footprint looks similar.

At the moment, I am however pulled between being frustrated at the lack of available information and also being excited at the possibilities that are already there or will open up in the future.

Needless to say, some people will be frustrated at the “seeming lack of details in this post”. Lets all stay calm, and remember that I will post a followup, with all the details soon.

Manufacturing

Over the past eight years, PCBWay has continuously upgraded their MANUFACTURING plants and equipment to meet higher quality requirements, and now THEY also provide OEM services to build your products from ideas to mass production and access to the market.

If you would like to have PCBWAY manufacture one of your own, designs, or even this particular PCB, you need to do the following…
1) Click on this link
2) Create an account if you have not already got one of your own.
If you use the link above, you will also instantly receive a $5 USD coupon, which you can use on your first or any other order later. (Disclaimer: I will earn a small referral fee from PCBWay. This referral fee will not affect the cost of your order, nor will you pay any part thereof.)
3) Once you have gone to their website, and created an account, or login with your existing account,

4) Click on PCB Instant Quote

5) If you do not have any very special requirements for your PCB, click on Quick-order PCB

6) Click on Add Gerber File, and select your Gerber file(s) from your computer. Most of your PCB details will now be automatically selected, leaving you to only select the solder mask and silk-screen colour, as well as to remove the order number or not. You can of course fine-tune everything exactly as you want as well.

7) You can also select whether you want an SMD stencil, or have the board assembled after manufacturing. Please note that the assembly service, as well as the cost of your components, ARE NOT included in the initial quoted price. ( The quote will update depending on what options you select ).

8) When you are happy with the options that you have selected, you can click on the Save to Cart Button. From here on, you can go to the top of the screen, click on Cart, make any payment(s) or use any coupons that you have in your account.

Then just sit back and wait for your new PCB to be delivered to your door via the shipping company that you have selected during checkout.

ATMega 328P Based PWM controller Card

As part of my recent ESP-12E I2C Base Board project, I designed an ATMega 328P Based PWM controller card, that can be used as an add-on card with the existing project, or standalone as a custom Arduino Nano compatible development board.

What is on the PCB?

The PWM controller card contains standard Arduino Nano circuitry running at 16MHz, without the USB to Serial converter, as well as a 3v to 5v level converter on the I2C port ( A4 and A5 ), as well as another 12v to 5v level converter, with a build in resistor-divider circuit, used to drive a 12v blower with 3.3v PWM control circuitry.

All analog inputs are broken out to make attaching additional sensors easier.

All the other unused GPIO pins are also broken out, either directly to headers on the PCB (D6~,D7,D8,D9~), D11,D12,D12 (ISCP Header) and D3 ( Marked RPM on the Fan Header)

Most of these pins are also additionally broken out onto the 2x20p female header at the bottom of the card ( See schematic for more details)

The board is designed to be powered from 12v DC (via the VIN pins on the 2x20p header) which is internally regulated down to 5v via an LDO voltage regulator.

External 3.3v should also be supplied to the 2x20Pin header to enable the I2C level converters on the same header. I2C is not directly broken out onto the PCB in this version of the PCB.

A reset button, and power led, as well as the standard led on D13 is also provided.

Manufacturing the PCB

Over the past eight years, PCBWay has continuously upgraded their MANUFACTURING plants and equipment to meet higher quality requirements, and now THEY also provide OEM services to build your products from ideas to mass production and access to the market.

4) Click on PCB Instant Quote

5) If you do not have any very special requirements for your PCB, click on Quick-order PCB

VC-01 and VC-02 Offline Voice Module

In a recent article, I took a look at the new VC-01 and VC-02 Voice offline voice modules from AI-Thinker. I mentioned that I was working on a very simple prototype PCB to do some more tests, as well as make practical use of the module in real life.

In this very short post, I will show off the initial prototype that I came up with.
While I have to admit that it is still in an extremely basic stage, It is already definitely useful.

Part of the reason for this is that there is not a lot of information available on the VC-01 and VC-02 at this stage, as well as the fact that more exotic features like I2C and SPI are still not accessible in the current firmware. I thus had to work with what was available, as well as take into consideration what will work with the standard factory firmware as well.

The prototype carrier PCB will thus only have two optically isolated relays and their supporting circuitry. I intend to actually use the PCB in my EE LAb area to control some of the lights in the area.

The Schematic

The schematic shows the relay control circuitry, comprising of my standard optic isolator-based relay driver, as well as headers to accept the VC-01 or VC-02 offline voice module kit PCB.

Testing the PCB

The PCB was tested using the standard factory firmware, as well as my custom firmware, kindly provided by AI-Thinker. Below is a short video of that in action. Please note that the relays was not yet connected to any external devices at this stage.

Manufacturing the PCB

Over the past eight years, PCBWay has continuously upgraded their MANUFACTURING plants and equipment to meet higher quality requirements, and now THEY also provide OEM services to build your products from ideas to mass production and access to the market.

4) Click on PCB Instant Quote

5) If you do not have any very special requirements for your PCB, click on Quick-order PCB

True OFFLINE Voice Assistant

Most of us are familiar with voice assistants these days; Google Assistant, Siri and Alexa are obviously the most well-known of these. They all share a common problem though: They are online, and can thus secretly record everything you say around them, for later use by their respective owners [ The Companies that created them ]. Having a true offline voice assistant can thus seem like the holy grail for privacy and security-minded people.

Introducing VC-01/VC-02

I was recently contacted by AI-Thinker and asked if I was interested to play with a new product of theirs, an offline voice module. I immediately jumped at the opportunity, as this was something that I wanted to get my hands on for a long time, providing it works of course…

AI-Thinker’s offline voice module is available in two models, the VC-01 and the VC-02.

My Sales Representative (Kat ) sent me both models, in a kit format, complete with speaker and microphone. The kit PCB also provides a USB port with a ch340 chip, as well as two push buttons (reset and wake-up) as well as 3 built-in LEDs ( White, Orange and Blue ).

These light up with the factory firmware, depending on what commands are issued to the device…

Let us take a look at how the factory firmware works; Thank you to Kat from Ai-Thinker for uploading the video, and sending the link to me 🙂

As we can see in the video above, the module seems to work very well… The question now arises if it can be customised to do what we want it to…

Custom Firmware – Do-able, but with a few caveats

Information in English on this module is very sparse. This is due to it being very new, and with AI-Thinker focusing most of their efforts for this module on the Chinese market for the time being. Which makes sense in one way, but also doesn’t in another.

After spending quite a bit of time trying to get information, my Sales Rep eventually gave me access to an online configuration utility, now be warned:
This is not for the faint of heart. The entire interface is in Chinese ( They are working on an English version, with time-to-completion between one (1) to four(4) weeks from starting the project. I can however not give any accurate dates at this stage, but was told that this development is underway).

Being no stranger to different languages, I thought to use google translate to translate the website. No, that didn’t work. Google refuses or the Chinese Website doesn’t allow it to? No answer as of yet. Any readers who do know any reasons for this, please comment below.

I was sort of successful in manually copy pasting line by line into google translate and got some translation back, but it was not very useful.

My next point to try was asking AI-Thinker to generate some firmware with the web tool. They gladly did that, and that works great. It is however not feasible in the long term to go that route every time.

This was possible because the AI-Thinker engineers, using the firmware development software, currently only available in Chinese, can set custom wake words and train voice commands with a 95% accuracy rate, before generating firmware and flashing it onto the respective module.

Write your own, someone will obviously say, and that was my next attempt. There is an API, and source code on GitHub, as well as Gitee ( The Chinese version of GitHub) The two sources are however not synced, and I was still not successful in getting anything useful from Gitee, once again due to a language issue, as well as the fact that some of the sources depend on 32bit dependencies for Ubuntu, whereas I am running a 64bit version… I did try it though, and can not report any success on that venture at all.

Once again, I will advice us all to wait for AI-Thinker to release an English version of the SDK and API for us all to use, which I am sure they will do at some stage in the near future.

See the video below of my custom firmware, once again demonstrated by Kat from AI-Thinker

Custom Firmware – Test 01

As we can see, it once again performs well, with a few issues, but quite acceptable…

Hardware access to the real world

As we have just seen in the video, there is also hardware access via pins, to the real world. There are however a few issues there as well…

Hardware pins are limited.
I2C and SPI, although advertised, are apparently not yet supported in any of the current firmware – Someone with information, please comment…

While there are 2 I2C interfaces, they can not be used at the same time
Information on the module

PCB Prototype – Of my own design

As a proof of concept, I have decided to design a quick prototype with relays to use as a more detailed test. I will update information on that soon…

My Conclusion

I definitely see potential here. This is a product which can be quite useful in the future, providing that the following is done:

Proper detailed documentation is provided in English as well as Chinese
API and SDK access is made available in English as well as Chinese
Firmware be updated to make all features available

Having said all of that, I do understand that development, and especially R&D do take a lot of time. Translating documents accurately does too.

I want to congratulate AI-Thinker on producing a very well-made unit, that will definitely bring the dream of a totally offline voice assistant a little bit closer to being a reality.

Voice recognition with my bastard South-African/British English Accent, heavily influenced by Afrikaans, went extremely well, even with the factory firmware.
I do thus not think anybody that can speak passable English will have a problem using the unit.